Datsun L- series ZCAR engine modifications. Datsun was very clever using the same 6- cylinder engine/transmission and drivetrain platform from 1. Not only did this make them easy to manufacture, but it lets an enthusiast mix parts from different years to create the perfect first generation Z.
The secret is that the heavier 2. ZX used physically identical 6- cylinder engines and transmissions from 1. Z models. Since a great many 2. Zs and ZXs are in junkyards what better time to breathe some life back into your car? So here is my formula for a very quick and fun 1. ![]() Power Steering Pump Pulley Installed Backwards LettersZ along with tested performance tips. Z/ZX ZX people should keep their injection and ignition and change the drivetrain parts only. FIRST - THE CARUnlike Chevy Chevelles of which several million were made, there were only 3. Zs made. After close to 4. Sadly, rust, wrecks, and rebuilds have sidelined most of them over the decades. Despite the nostalgia I don't see a problem removing the old engine and drivetrain and replacing them with newer versions. Without your intervention the car would likely never see the street again... Helpful information and resources on Case tractors from SSB Tractor, a leading provider of tractor parts, manuals, implements and toys. Technical Help from the Solid Axle Corvette Club. To submit a technical question regarding a 1953 to 1962 Corvette, simply email [email protected]. 2010 Ford Fusion problem with Steering. 2010 FORD FUSION Steering problems. If you want to find a base model to use for your fantasy racer, try to find one of the first 1. Zs made from 1. 97. These are identified by a "2. Z" badge behind the side window and two grills on the rear hatch. These '7. 0- 7. 1s were the lightest of all ZCARs, at about 2. Later models went to a round Z badge behind the side window and removed the hatch grills. Unfortunately the weight went up a few hundred pounds due to chassis strengthening. Z F5. 4 with P9. 0 head, Nissan T5 5- speed, 4: 1. SECOND - the block Datsun made several blocks over the years, varying in bore and casting methods. Compared to the 2. Z L2. 4, the 2. 60. Z L2. 6 had a longer stroke, while the 2. Z L2. 8 had both a longer stroke and a larger bore. The way to identify the block is to look on the driver side of the engine, to the right of the motor mount. That's where they cast the block number. ENGINEDISPLACEMENTBLOCK CASTING CODEHEADSL2. Z)2. 4 liter # E3. Toyota Camry 5SFE Engine Timing Belt, Water Pump and Seal Replacement. E3. 1 L2. 4 ('7. 1- 7. Z) 2. 4 liter # P3. E8. 8L2. 6 ('7. 4 2. Z)2. 6 liter # P3. E8. 8L2. 8 ('7. 5- 8. Z/ZX)2. 8 liter # N4. N4. 2, N4. 7 L2. 8 ('8. ZX)2. 8 liter # F5. P7. 9, P9. 0, P9. Except for the turbo guys it seems that only since the late 1. F5. 4 engines. Because of the Z's longevity these motors didn't show up in junkyards until then, well past the heyday of Z racing fever in the 1. What people didn't realize is that minus power steering, AC, and other ZX plumbing the F5. L- series engine.. ZX. Personally, I like the idea of putting a late model F5. Z and converting it back to carbs. Very retro, functional, and quick. So I suggest using the last of the L2. F5. 4. It's cylinders are "siamesed" meaning that instead of coolant flowing between all the cylinders as on earlier models they are connected between 1- 2, 3- 4, 5- 6 with cast webbing for more rigidity. There really isn't a special "turbo block", all Datsun did to make the F5. It can be tricky determining exactly what combo is in your car as many have had the heads swapped over the years. First check the block code, then the head code between the 1st and 2nd spark plugs. Check out the head page to see which head came with which block. Sometimes you have to do a little detective work. PISTONS The F5. 4 motors with P7. All other L2. 8 engines/head combos (N4. N4. 7,P9. 0, P9. 0a) came with dished pistons. In a performance engine, flattop pistons create a higher- quench mixture and allow for higher performance combustion chambers. Dished pistons are usually used to lower emissions. HEADS The P7. 9, P9. P9. 0a heads are the three heads found on F5. The P7. 9 has diamond- shaped exhaust ports with steel liners that heat red- hot to reduce emissions. The P9. 0 and P9. E8. 8 and N4. 2. My guru racer buddy says Nissan finally "got it right" on the P9. Its design incorporates the best features of all the heads: square exhaust ports, high- quench chambers, and steel seats. Check out my P9. 0 and P7. HORSEPOWERThe 1. 97. L2. 8 motors put out a rated 1. L2. 8 motors were 1. The little plate on the shock tower in the 1. Z's engine compartment may say 1. SAE but thats gross HP.. THIRD - carburetion and fuel The optimum stoichiometric air/fuel ratio for car engines is 1. Luckily the stock 2. Z Hitachi SU is a great carb for both street and performance and automatically meters the gas depending on the airflow through it. So whether you are stock or have a cam with large duration, with the proper needle the SU carb tries to keep the correct mixture from idle to redline. A simple, accurate design. See here for Weber DCOE tips and tricks. The "good" SU's were from 1. The year makes no difference for performance as the nozzles and needles from different years interchange. If you have carbs with the square choke flap in the inlet or round flat tops then you have poorly performing emission carbs. Exchange them for earlier SU models. NOZZLES AND CARB NEEDLES- the '7. N2. 7" needles and related nozzles.- the '7. N5. 4 needles, the '7. N5. 8, both with the same '7. SM needles from British SUs are excellent for performance. See my Dyno page for details. My own setup is . Z Therapy nozzles, SM needles on a set of 1. Z "N3. 6" intake. SETTING SU FLOAT BOWL LEVELSWe've all spent afternoons syncing the carb airflow, topping up the damper oil and making sure the jet needle/fuel nozzle levels are set properly (2 1/2 turns down, etc). But how many of us have checked to make sure the gas float levels are identical on each carb? This is actually a very big deal. If the fuel levels are different in each float bowl, even a small bit, one carb will always be lean or rich compared to the other. The issue is that the SU uses a combination of incoming gas and the float closing the fuel- valve to create a steady fuel level at the tip of each fuel nozzle. If this fuel level varies between carbs then its also at a different level on each jet needle. HOW TO MEASURE FUEL LEVELS? This has been covered in several places online. Be careful since you're dealing with gasoline(!) Mark the front of the float bowl 2. These measurements are done with the carbs on the car. Get some small diameter clear plastic hose from the hardware store, cut a piece about 1. Connect one end to a float bowl's outlet and run the other end up over the carb. Some people connect the hose to the drain plug on the float bowl but the fuel hose outlet is a lot easier.- Bring your fuel pressure to what it would be while idling. This means if you have a mechanical fuel pump turn the engine over a few times with the coil wire off. With an electric fuel pump just turn the ignition on to pump up the fuel pressure. The fuel level will equalize in the hose and should line up with the 2. By sighting the level in the hose and bending the tab on each float you can get the float fuel levels to match within a millimeter. HOWEVER: Even though adjusting the floatbowl levels to 2. THE TRICK: I did some measuring with a straightedge and found that on my 4- screw SUs a 2. But how do you see to measure fuel 1 centimeter down inside the fuel ozzle? See below. - Remove the dome and main piston from each carb so you can look down the tip of both fuel nozzles. Screw each mixture nut exactly 1. Each full turn drops the nozzle tip 1 mm, so 1. Then look down the tip of each fuel nozzle and adjust each float to set the gas level at the fuel nozzle tip. I ended up taking mine to 9 turns down and set the fuel at the meniscus of the tip. Then when I went to 1. A bit of a juggling act but after a few minutes you will get the hang of it. When you get them to match it's a great feeling. NOTE #1: if your mixture nut won't go down more than a few turns, it's because the factory "stopper" next to the nut is still in place. Unless originality is a concern, you can permenantly remove both stoppers from the bottom of the carb. NOTE#2: if the fuel level is too high and overflows the nozzle tip, you will need to drain each float bowl a bit before starting again. The result was a lower, more solid idle and less choke needed at startup. I get no stumbling off idle and part- throttle acceleration is smoother, acceleration more powerful. Cruising on the interstate requires a lighter touch on the accelerator. Interesting. FLOAT VALVESI recently bought a quality carb rebuild kit which contained pair of long/short valves for each carb (with no mention in the instructions). Different year SUs came with different length float "ears", but which length valve went with each year carb and why? At $4. 0,0. 00, Would This Custom 2. Dodge Challenger Give ‘Em Hellcat? You could buy a Dodge Challenger Hellcat for about $7. K, or you could save thirty grand and buy today’s Nice Price or Crack Pipe SRT8, which is also supercharged but features nitrous to boot. Let’s see if the car is up to the price’s challenge. At its $3,5. 00 asking, even I thought the seller of yesterday’s 1. Mazda 3. 23 GTX was reaching for the stars. That car had so many red flags it could have led a Putin parade, so many so in fact that not even a cool digital dash could even the balance. Enough of you agreed that we saw that little Mazda go down in a decisive 6. Crack Pipe loss. The GTX was GTFO. Aside from Tuesday’s Ferrari, which was naturally aspirated, all of this week’s contenders have come under pressure, either from the factory as with yesterday’s Mazda, or via the aftermarket as we saw with Monday’s De. Lorean and Wednesday’s vilified Camaro. I say, let’s let it roll, and as always, bet on black. Today’s 2. 00. 8 Dodge Challenger SRT8 is both supercharged and almost black so it totally fits the bill. Handy, no? The car has an interesting history. It was bought in 2. St. Louis Rams (now the L. A. Rams - go Rams!) offensive lineman Chris Williams. The car came with a built- up hemi, embiggened to 4. CID via a stroker kit, and toughened to take everything that the Kenne Bell twin- scroll supercharger sitting down in its valley could muster. That ends up being 1,0. BHP, or 2. 93 more ponies than a Hellcat. A nitrous system let’s the car get even more Mad Max if needed, and all the work is claimed to have been professionally completed. As we shall see, that sometimes doesn’t mean that everything’s all happy dances and two kinds of pie, however. As it turns out, Williams had some initial teething problems with the car. They’re detailed in this article over on Hot Rod, but the short and curly of the story is that the original belt and pulley setup were unable to withstand sudden power cut offs, and would result in serpentine spaghetti under the hood, and a call to the AAA. Those issues, along with a number of others were sorted under Williams’ ownership, at which time the originally orange paint was also traded for a deep, dark black forest green. It seems that William’s motto is “if you’ve got a toy, you damn- well better play with it” because he only got about 2,0. That resulted in another trip to the shop where a Dyantrac Pro. NAG1 five- speed automatic were dishing out. That work was documented in this Hot Rod piece. The car not just all ate up with motor, it has a lot of other mods to enjoy, as well as just being a Challenger SRT8, which is about as badass a thing to be as you can imagine. The brakes are Brembos, the wheels are CCW alloys wrapped in Nittos, and the car sits all hunkered down on a KW coilover suspension. It’s also got all the bells and whistles you’d expect of a high- end Challenger—heated seats, Nav, keyless entry, etc—so you know you’ll get some dinner with your show. There’s only 1. 1,0. The paint is both clean and evil looking, while the interior shows almost as stock. The nitrous controls have been subtly integrated into the console, while a hoped for A- pillar gauge does prove to be present. By the way, those SRT seats—while may they look as cosseting and comfortable as Salma Hayek’s cleavage—are, in my experience, shit for the long haul. YMMV. Is this car now fully sorted and ready for a new owner to enjoy without worry of another major system letting go owing to is monster capabilities? That’s something that new owner will just have to find out. The cost to do so is $4. The question for you of course, is whether this Challenger is up to the task of earning that asking. What do you think, is this former footballer’s mega- hot Dodge worth that $4. Or, is this a Challenger with a too- challenging price? You decide! Daytona Beach FL Craigslist, or go here if the ad disappears. Help me out with NPOCP. Click here to send a me a fixed- price tip, and remember to include your Kinja handle.
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